Showing solar for Ohio (we're still verifying this state's specifics) — not your state? See the Ohio page
Own it or lease it?
These are different products with different math. We'll show you both against staying with the utility.
Ownership (cash or loan)
You own the system and the production. Best long-term economics for many homes — but note the 30% federal residential tax credit (Section 25D) ended for systems placed in service after December 31, 2025, so a 2026 cash/loan purchase generally can't claim it.
Lease / PPA
A third party owns the system; you pay for the power or the equipment monthly. Watch for escalators (payments that rise each year) and 20–25 year terms. The federal credit, where it still applies, is claimed by the owner — not you.
Many programs let you buy the system out (often after year 5). Worth knowing: once you own it, the maintenance and warranty coverage bundled into the lease typically ends — so you take on upkeep and repairs. We'll walk you through whether a buyout pencils out for you.
Tax situations vary. The federal tax-credit change above is general information, not tax advice — confirm with your tax professional. See our sourced explainer →
Your utility matters — a lot
In Florida, investor-owned utilities like FPL offer full retail net metering under PSC Rule 25-6.065. Cooperatives like LCEC set their own rules and often credit excess energy differently. Sizing your system to your utility is where real value is won or lost.
FPL (and other IOUs)
Excess kWh credited at essentially full retail value, month to month, with a year-end true-up. Governed by the Florida PSC.
LCEC (cooperative)
Banks your excess as kWh to offset later use, then pays any year-end surplus at a lower avoided-wholesale rate. Oversizing to "sell back" usually doesn't pay — size to your own usage.
See the range for your bill
Your numbers
Move the sliders to picture the possibilities.
We default low on purpose. Most homes land 15–30%; the result below shows a conservative-to-typical range.
Nobody can promise this. 6% is a middle estimate; try 3–12%.
Add battery backup
Include in the plan
Possible 25-year difference
$43,945–$84,842
a conservative-to-typical range over 25 years vs. staying on the utility — an estimate, not a promise
Why your results will vary
- —Roof orientation, shade & angle
- —Your actual usage patterns
- —System size that fits your roof
- —Real utility-rate changes (unpredictable)
- —Weather & seasonal production
- —Financing terms and any escalator
25-year spend, side by side
For visualizing possibilities only. Every home is different — we don't get a clear picture until a site survey and bill analysis are done. Real utility rates, usage, production, roof, and program terms all vary, and savings aren't guaranteed.
The honest answers to the usual worries
Roof, moving, the 25-year term, credit — most of these aren't dealbreakers. Here's how we handle each, and the one that actually is.
My roof might need replacing first+
Usually fixable, not a dealbreaker. If a new roof makes sense, we can include it in the plan and sequence the roof and solar together — so you're never paying to remove and reinstall panels later.
I might sell the house+
The lease is tied to the home, so it transfers to the new owner — and a lower, predictable energy bill is a selling point. Some buyers are cautious about solar, so we help you and your realtor present it the right way, with the numbers to back it up.
25 years is a long commitment+
It is a long agreement — and we won't pretend otherwise. What you're locking in is a lower, more predictable energy cost for decades while utility rates keep climbing. We walk through every term up front so there are no surprises later.
Can I buy the panels instead of leasing forever?+
Often yes — many programs let you buy the system out, commonly after year 5. Here's the honest tradeoff: the maintenance, monitoring, and warranty coverage bundled into the lease typically end once you own it, so upkeep and repairs become yours. We'll run the buyout numbers with you so you can see whether owning outright actually comes out ahead.
I'm worried about my credit+
Most programs look for roughly a 600+ score — but if you're under that, we have programs designed to help. We'll find out what you actually qualify for before anything is committed, with no impact on your decision to look.
What if my roof can't produce enough?+
This is the honest dealbreaker. Heavy shade, a poor angle, or the wrong orientation can mean your roof simply can't collect enough sun to power the home economically. We check this first — and if your roof can't do the job, we'll tell you straight and save you the trouble.
We can usually solve this The honest dealbreaker
Before we meet — two things we promise
You'll see the full contract terms up front — payment, any escalator, length, and exactly what's covered (maintenance, insurance, and warranty are part of the lease). No fine print sprung on you at the table.
And because this is a real decision, please have everyone who shares it there when we go over the numbers — spouse, co-owner, whoever weighs in. It saves everyone a second meeting and lets you decide together.
Start with your actual bill
Solar math only means something against your real usage and rate. Upload a recent bill and we'll ground the whole conversation in your numbers.
Is solar right for your roof?
Upload a recent electric bill and we'll compare ownership, lease, and staying with the utility — on your actual usage and your utility's rules.
We compare the numbers. You decide. If solar isn't right for your property, we'll say so.